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Restaurant Profile - Lightermans, Kingsteignton

PUBLISHED: 17:19 20 December 2010 | UPDATED: 17:59 20 February 2013

Restaurant Profile - Lightermans, Kingsteignton

Restaurant Profile - Lightermans, Kingsteignton

You get a sizeable slice of history with your meals here, at the Passage Hotel near Newton Abbot, Devon

This idyllic spot on the River Teign at Kingsteignton has been a centre of hospitality for well over 1,000 years, dating back to Roman times, when there was a tidal ford across the river. More recently, during the canal era, the area was home to a community of Lightermen who plyed their trade between Newton Abbot and Teignmouth docks, and whose ruined cottages still line the river. I had often wondered what those ruins were, and now I know.



Its from this era of history that The Lightermans Restaurant takes its name and the stylish dcor of the modern restaurant is enhanced by old paintings of the Teign in its many moods. There is no shortage of eating places in this hospitality enclave, the Passage House Inn (under the same ownership) caters for clientele who prefer good pub food, whilst the Lightermans Restaurant and the associated Vue Brasserie at the Hotel offer a quieter, more reflective mood. Evening diners at the restaurant can mix and match between the set menu and the all-day menu from the Brasserie, but my party chose the set menu, with enough choice to suit almost every palate. Duty Manager Danielle Palmer looked after us superbly throughout our visit, which extended until well into the evening, with coffee in the comfortable lounge area.



Between the four of us we made considerable inroads into the set menus bill of fare. Two of us opted for stuffed field mushroom starters and the others chose a huge bowl of butternut squash soup; portions here are nothing if not satisfying.



We all had different mains: mine was succulent lamb noisettes on champ potatoes with a redcurrant and mint sauce, my wife chose the pan-fried sea bass (being garlic intolerant, she opted to have it without Head Chef Jason Harry is very accommodating). My guests, respectively, had steak au poivre and an heroic portion of roasted salmon, which came coated with crispy couscous, something I had never seen before but am determined to recreate. The desserts we chose were bread and butter pudding (of course), a drooling crme brle, a decadent chocolate mousse and (inevitably, for my wife) a huge cheese board, which came with an enormous side salad. A bottle of the refreshing house Chardonnay accompanied our meals.



Good company, convivial surroundings, brilliant West Country sourced food cooked and served with flair and no scrimping, made for a thoroughly enjoyable evening. Inevitably, comparisons were made, and the Lightermans came out very favourably indeed. Well certainly be back to try the Brasserie next time and if the Lightermans is anything to go by, it wont only be for the superb views of the river. MALCOM TWIGG


Lightermans Restaurant,


The Passage House Hotel, Kingsteignton,


Newton Abbot,


TQ12 3QH


01626 355 515


www.passagehousehotel.co.uk



Proprietor:


Roger Heywood


Head Chef:


Jason Harry


Opening Hours:


All day (set course dinner 7pm-9.30pm; Sunday lunch 12 noon)


Prices:


Starters from 4.95, mains from 11.95, desserts 5.75, three-course set evening menu 29.95



SAMPLE MENU


(From the evening set menu)



Starters


Red onion tartlet (caramelised red onion and tomato topped with goats cheese)


Torbay mussels in a white wine and herb cream sauce



Main courses


(Served with a selection of fresh vegetables)


Mushroom ravioli served on a bed of wild mushroom cream sauce topped with Parmesan


Pan-fried sea bass with fresh thyme and garlic, served with sauted new potatoes



Desserts


Belgium waffles served warm with maple syrup, ice cream and sliced banana


Chocolate mousse garnished with fresh strawberry



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