Harry's Grill Bar, Bailey Street, Exeter, Devon - Restaurant Review
PUBLISHED: 19:55 14 January 2010 | UPDATED: 16:22 20 February 2013
Julian Rees samples great steaks at Harry's Grill Bar in Bailey Street, Exeter, Devon.
Harrys Grill Bar, Bailey Street, Exeter, Devon
You may have eaten at Harrys Restaurant in Longbrook Street, Exeter; its been there for 12 years and has become part of the citys foodie furniture a Saturday lunchtime favourite of ours, synonymous with friendly service and value for money. You may not yet have experienced Harrys Grill Bar, the restaurants recent sibling, as the name suggests, a more specialist affair that will appeal to those with more time to enjoy a fuller eating experience and especially those who appreciate great steaks.
On arrival we were warmly greeted by host Oliver Heathcote, formerly of J Sheekey in Covent Garden, London, who immediately made us at home in the comfortable cocktail bar. A wide range of classic cocktails were available from the resident mixologist along with a few contemporary twists, which Im told, often lead to rousing performances on the self service piano on a weekend night!
After getting the lowdown from Oliver and Sous Chef Andrew Beckett on Harrys raison dtre the promotion of ethical farming methods, reducing the restaurants carbon footprint, and sourcing the best local ingredients we proceeded upstairs to the well-appointed restaurant. This has a fantastic open-timbered roof space, floor-to-ceiling windows matched with similarly sized cast-iron radiators, all put together, la Harrys, by various members of the Pounds family.
It would be fair to say they know a thing or two about creating just the right ambience to enjoy great food and good company.
Although the menu boasts a varied range of main courses, its the grill menu that draws ones attention, with a full selection of steaks rump, sirloin, porterhouse, rib-eye, T-bone and Chateaubriand in a variety of weights that will satisfy the most red-blooded of carnivores.
Knowing I was just going to have to go large, I started with the finest fillet Carpaccio whilst my partner, maintaining her foray into all things fungal, went for the wild mushroom brioche both suitably tasty. For me, the rib-eye is the king of steaks, having a good eye of fat that gives a fuller flavour to match the full stomach feeling from the puts-hair-on-your-chest 14-ounce portion.
All Harrys beef is sourced from AW Luscombe of Totnes, my local butcher (make mental note to order free range turkey for the holiday season from said butcher next week) and is 100% Devon-reared, carrying the South West Quality Meat Certificate and hung for a minimum 21 days.
Fearing the hairy chest, my partner chose belly pork, an equally flavoursome cut that has made a welcome return, in my opinion, to more and more modern menus. On this occasion it was served with a subtle crab apple and cider sauce, which really couldnt be better.
Finishing off with Chef Adam Littles well-flavoured homemade ice creams, we were both truly well fed.
The combination of a great bar, quality wholesome food, well-designed surroundings and enthusiastic and attentive staff is sure to see Harrys Grill Bar match the success of its older stablemate.
Harrys Grill Bar
No 6 Northernhay Place
Exeter, Devon, EX4 3QJ
Monday-Wednesday: 12 noon-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm
Thursday-Saturday: 12 noon-2.30pm and 6pm-10.30pm
Open at 11am for coffee; late bar on Fridays and Saturdays
Proprietor: Sam Pounds
General Manager: Oliver Heathcote
Head Chef: Adam Little
Sous Chef: Andrew Beckett
Starters from 5.50; Mains from 10; Desserts from 4.50
House wines from 14
Wild mushroom brioche with tarragon crme frache
River Exe mussels cooked in Somerset cider, finished with cream
Wild venison loin with red cabbage, dauphinoise potatoes and blackberry sauce
Chateaubriand (for two) fillet steak with barnaise sauce, homemade fries, tomato & watercress
Harrys chocolate sundae homemade brownie, cookie dough ice cream and chocolate sauce
Local cheeses: Quickes Cheddar, Sharpham Brie, Cornish Yarg, and Devon Blue, with homemade oat biscuits and homemade chutney
Which do you prefer, Harry's Restaurant or Harry's Grill Bar?