3 ISSUES FOR JUST £3 Subscribe to Devon Life today click here

Slow Cooked Loin of Pork from Lewtrenchard Manor, Devon - recipe

PUBLISHED: 19:11 14 January 2010 | UPDATED: 15:19 20 February 2013

Chef Jason Hornbuckle

Chef Jason Hornbuckle

Malcolm Twigg is entertained to a dinner like no other at Lewtrenchard Manor's Purple Carrot where they have developed a whole new culinary adventure, 'Chef's Table' where the diner is taken (virtually) into the kitchen.

Lewtrenchard Manor has developed a whole new culinary adventure, 'Chef's Table', and a party of us were there to experience it in their new private dining area, The Purple Carrot. As a dining concept the Chef's Table brings Lewtrenchard right into the forefront of contemporary dining culture and finally fuses the worlds of cooking and entertainment into one indissoluble whole. Especially so in the hands of chef/patron Jason Hornbuckle who can out-celeb the best of the TV celebrity chefs around, aided and abetted by his team of chefs and serving staff.



Gordon Ramsay is credited with first developing the concept of Chef's Table - which I found surprising, because you might well imagine your lettuce curling at the edges or your pannacotta curdling on the plate at the effing and blinding likely to erupt from the kitchen. But that's what Chef's Table is, warts and all: it's a concept that takes the diner into the kitchen and the kitchen onto the dining table; if things go wrong they go wrong and you can see how the chefs deal with it and turn it around. You can watch your food being prepared and cooked either through windows or via a series of split-screen TVs and you can hear the chef describing the process. You can even chat to the chefs across the spice bar at Lewtrenchard to get some tips on what they're actually doing.



Lewtrenchard Manor is part of the von Essen group of hotels, renowned for comfort, class and quality throughout the country. All are found in abundance here, with a huge supply of unfussy friendliness that makes it a home-from-home for the guests and diners. And 80% of Lewtrenchard's produce is home-grown in the walled garden of the old manor house - all stolidly cultivated in the old-fashioned manner by Bill, the 73-year-old gardener.


When Jason Hornbuckle became chef/patron it automatically thrust his kitchen into front of house anyway, so the Chef's Table concept is a simple progression from that. It is founded on the increasing public awareness of food and its origins and people's hunger to know more about the food they are eating.



There was a time when anyone who didn't belong in a chef's kitchen set foot in there at their peril, but Chef's Table sets that notion right on its head. "The chefs love it," Jason said. "We're in the entertainment business at root, so why not make the most of it? The whole experience is like no other and you take away from it what you want. It doesn't even have to be a good memory about the food. So long as you've enjoyed the evening and have been well entertained, we're happy."



Jason jumped on the idea when he completely revamped his kitchen. "We had this small staff-room adjoining that would be ideal to use as a private dining room, so we incorporated that into the design, adopted a contemporary dcor, with all furniture and fittings being built by local craftsmen, and set the whole thing running. Customers love it." So, apparently, do the chefs, despite doing their work in something of a goldfish bowl.



The Chef's Table at Lewtrenchard can cater for between four and eight people, with champagne and canaps on arrival, an eight-course menu with different wines to accompany each main course (provided by Bibendum Wine Ltd), a running commentary on what is happening in the kitchen if you care to turn the sound on, and an explanation by the sommelier as to the choice of wines to accompany the particular courses. Menus can be either pre-designed by the customer or left to the chef's discretion. One of the main courses will actually be cooked in the dining room with an explanation by the chef as to how to approach it and the opportunity for guests to take part in the process. And the wine flows, and flows. The whole intention is for guests to enjoy an entirely relaxed evening and to have fun.



Jason was indomitable centre stage in the kitchen - he could almost do a stand-up routine or start juggling knives whilst directing operations, but it could hardly improve on the entertainment that we had that evening, which everyone felt was first class. And, do you know, excellent though the food and wine was, it was only a very small part of the overall value that we all got out of the evening? Jason was quite right. You take away with you what you enjoyed most about Chef's Table. In our case, it was everything.


But that is only one small part of the uses to which The Purple Carrot will be put. Cookery demonstrations are on the menu, wine-tasting evenings are in the offing, top-name guest chef evenings are planned, and cookery workshops are being worked up, where participants can actually get hands-on in Jason's new kitchen. I can hardly wait!



The Recipes



SLOWLY COOKED LOIN OF PORK


Serves 6-8



1 loin of pork


200g fennel seeds


Zest of 3 limes


50g rock salt


1 red chilli


1 clove garlic


1 bay leaf



1 Blend the rock salt, lime zest, chilli, garlic, bay leaf and fennel seeds together until the mixture resembles a paste-like consistency. Generously cover the pork with the marinade, wrap in cling film and leave overnight.



2 Slowly steam for 11/2 hours and then leave to rest for 20 minutes. Thinly slice and serve.



Jason served this with Lewtrenchard asparagus, glazed carrots and star anise jus.




CHAR-GRILLED AUBERGINE WITH PICKLED TOMATOES


Serves 6-8



1 aubergine


1 bunch mint


1 bunch coriander


1 clove garlic


Good glug of olive oil



10 plum tomatoes


1 bunch basil


2 sprigs thyme


1 clove garlic


2 tbsp white wine vinegar


100ml olive oil


Rock salt


Pepper



1 Thinly slice the aubergine and chargrill on both sides with no oil - this will enhance the flavour. Remove from the grill, add the chopped mint, coriander and garlic and pour over the olive oil. Mix lightly and leave at room temperature.



2 Slice the tomatoes and add rock salt. Chop all other ingredients, mix together and spread over the tomatoes. Cover with foil and gently heat in the oven for just 5 minutes - remove and leave to cool.



3 Top the aubergines with the tomatoes and serve with rocket salad dressed with just olive oil and some shavings of Montgomery cheddar. Smoked Montgomery gives a particularly good flavour.




VANILLA PANNACOTTA WITH ENGLISH STRAWBERRIES


Serves 6-8



1 litre cream


500ml milk


200g sugar


4 leaves gelatine


2 vanilla pods



1 Heat the milk, cream and sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Infuse the vanilla by splitting the pods and scraping out the seeds into the milk. Leave to cool.


2 Soak the gelatine in a little cold water, then add to the vanilla mixture and set in the fridge for at least 4 hours.


3 Serve with strawberries. This tastes especially good with marinaded strawberries and green peppercorn ice cream.



MORE INFORMATION:



www.lewtrenchard.co.uk

0 comments

More from Food & Drink

Tuesday, September 18, 2018

South Hams local MARC COWLING deliberates the increasing fascination with lure fishing for sea bass, and how a passion has become his full-time occupation

Read more
Thursday, September 6, 2018

This salad can be served as a main or a starter. The wild duck, celeriac and game hollandaise are delicious together

Read more
Thursday, September 6, 2018

After an overwhelming response to last month’s competition, Devon Life has teamed up with Food Drink Devon and its members for the second time to create another delectable foodie prize

Read more
Tuesday, September 4, 2018

As the winter begins to close in, there’s nowhere better to take refuge than one of Devon’s many cosy pubs. Here are 9 you should look for when needing to escape the nippy British weather

Read more
Tuesday, August 28, 2018

The owners of a famous Devon ice cream company have launched a new foodie venture, as Catherine Courtenay discovers

Read more
Wednesday, August 15, 2018

Whether you have strawberry or raspberry jam on your scones, or prefer Earl Grey to English breakfast tea, we’ve found 12 of the best tearooms that Devon has to offer

Read more
Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Verity Hesketh is enchanted by Devon’s renowned floating restaurant

Read more
Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Public Houses are a cornerstone of life here in Britain, dating back as far as the Roman invasion in 43 AD. Devon is no different and its humble establishments are steeped in history and nostalgia. We’ve taken a look at 11 of the county’s most historical pubs

Read more
Friday, August 10, 2018

Having two distinctly different and unconnected coastlines, Devon boasts some very fine, and very varied, beach and coastal cafés that really come into their own during the outdoorsy days of summer. Simone Stanbrook-Byrne picks 7 heavenly Devon beach and coastal cafés

Read more
Tuesday, August 7, 2018

With views of the coast, the countryside and our towns and cities, Devon’s eateries are home to some of the best views the county has to offer. Here are 23 places that are a treat for the tongue and the eyes

Read more
Tuesday, July 31, 2018

The Sunday lunch is an enduring British institution that’s incredibly important to get right. We’ve chosen 12 places in Devon that will guarantee sublime stuffing, mouth-watering meats and Yorkshire pudding perfection.

Read more
Tuesday, July 24, 2018

There’s nowhere better to make the most of the glorious summer sun in Devon than in one of our many delightful beer gardens. From north to south, we pick 9 of the best pubs to visit

Read more
Tuesday, July 24, 2018

For most of us, the difficulty of having a cream tea is deciding whether to put the jam or cream on first (cream first, obviously). But for coeliacs and the gluten intolerant, finding a place that caters for your dietary needs can be far harder. To help you out, we’ve picked 8 places for gluten-free cream tea in Devon

Read more
Tuesday, July 10, 2018

The Devon Life Food & Drink Awards - to be held at Sandy Park on 15 November - are back and we want you to nominate your local heroes

Read more

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Our Privacy Policy


Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Subscribe or buy a mag today


subscription ad

Local Business Directory

Property Search